All Natural Shampoo Bar

Ingredients:

3 pounds of cold distilled water
510 grams of sodium hydroxide
2 pounds and 13 ounces of olive oil
2 pounds and 4 ounces of castor oil
4 ounces of jojoba oil
2 pounds and 4 ounces of coconut oil
2 ounces of shea butter
2 ounces of sweet almond oil
2 ounces of apricot kernel oil
2 ounces of avocado oil
30 grams of grapefruit seed extract or rosemary oleoresin (preservative)
15-18 teaspoons of optional essential oils

Directions:

1- Line soap mold with waxed freezer paper. Use masking tape to smooth edges and secure the paper to the frame or box.

2- Pre-measure essential oil(s)and any additives and set aside in sealed containers.

3- Wear goggles and gloves, measure out sodium hydroxide and set aside.

4- Set the glass container on the scale and zero it out. Add the distilled water and remove from the scale to a well ventilated area (I prefer to do it outside). Carefully add the sodium hydroxide and stir quickly with a metal or wooden utensil. *The fumes will be strong. The reaction will make the solution over 200 degrees, so you will need to set the bowl aside and let it cool to 80 degrees F*

5- While lye is cooling, measure out and combine olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, and avocado oil in one pot and heat over low heat. Measure out and add coconut oil to another pot, and heat over low, stirring, until all chunks have dissolved, then add shea butter until well melted and combined. Once melted and well blended, add the coconut/shea butter mixture to the other oils along with your preservative. Let the oil mixture cool to 80 degrees F.

6- When lye and oils are both at 80 degrees F, (make sure to remove from heat) wearing your goggles and gloves, add the sodium hydroxide mixture to the oil mixture and stir briskly as you pour. Continue stirring, circling the edges of the pan and cutting through the middle to keep as much of the mixture in constant motion as you can. *Make sure not to beat it or whip it, just stir "briskly", and do not scrape the sides of the pan.* Once it reaches "trace", or when a small amount of the mixture drizzled across the top of the mixture leaves a faint pattern before sinking back into the solution, the soap is ready for the essential oils and other additives. Reaching trace consistency could take between 7-40 minutes, depending on the batch. Patience and a strong arm are must haves, lol.

7- Add EO and additives, stirring swiftly and thoroughly for 20 or 30 seconds and then quickly pour into prepared frames. Mixture should be uniform in color and smooth with no lumps.

8- Cover the frame with a piece of plywood or heavy cardboard then cover with a thick blanket. Let sit for 18 to 24 hours, undisturbed. The insulation is really important, because it allows the soap to heat up and complete the process.

9- After 24 hours, uncover the frame and set it away from drafts and cold temps for 1-7 days, until the soap is firm enough to cut. Do not wait until it is rock hard.

10- Using rulers and a paring knife, lightly mark the soap block into bars, but be careful not to cut all the way through. Once the marks are satisfactory, cut all the way through into bars. Using the wax paper edges, gently lift the soap from the frame and peel the paper away. Trim a thin slice off the top to remove the powdery white soda ash, and trim the edges.

11- In a dry, well ventilated room away from temperature extremes, lay the soaps in a single layer on brown paper or wicker or rattan placemats. Don't use bags or paper with ink on them, it will imprint the soap.

12- Allow the soaps to cure for 4-6 weeks, turning them over once to expose the other sides. During this time the soaps are becoming harder and milder. Wrap and store in breathable material.

**Got this and other recipes out of "The Natural Soap Book" by Susan Miller Cavitch. Great resource for soap making.**